Longview to Centralia

As with the Olympia to Tacoma ride, I recommend riding this one south to north because Centralia makes for a charming end point, and there is nothing of value in Longview.

For this leg, you disembark from the train at the Kelso/Longview station. Getting to the bike path, that you can see just the other side of the cyclone fence separating the station from the waterfront, is not very intuitive. That they have a bike trail in Kelso is astounding enough, but even more astounding is that there is no access to it. You must actually backtrack a few blocks south to cross the tracks to the trail. Once you find that, you can ride a couple miles along the river.

Things always look better once you leave Longview. I’ve written before that it seems to be an epicenter of meth addiction. Soon out of Longview, I was treated to green rolling hills. The wind at my back and the freshly paved highway kissing my tires, like a layer of fondant slightly tacky and smooth, added to the pleasant experience.

Castle Rock was little gem. I’d only before known it as the exit for Mt St Helens, but the bike route takes you right through the little town with its 2 one way streets and a mountain bike park. As you arrive, you are greeted by the actual Castle Rock, which was named for a castle-like volcanic rock outcropping over the Cowlitz River.

I found the little mountain bike park by following the bike trail along the river. I couldn’t resist riding some of the mounds and planks, but there are some expert only trials so be careful.

The route continues west over the river, but I decided to ride through town on my trip. There was more than expected, and you could stop here for coffee or a snack, but I continued on.

At the junction with 506, I saw that the hill I’d been riding continued up, while the road to the left went downhill to a town named Vader. A name I’d only heard once before in some sci-fi film, convinced me to investigate. It was a sad little town, but had made efforts to modernize itself with a one block long sidewalk that could be illuminated at night with dilapidated street lamps. There was also a mural welcoming you to the City of Vader painted on the side of one of the barns downtown.

It took me about 5 minutes to exhaust my exploration of Vader, and I continued on my way. I was pleased to see the route I’d chosen avoided the huge hill I was supposed to climb. The road to Winlock was a little heavily traveled so when I looked down a side road and saw a bridge trestle, I headed down, hoping for a road that followed a river. I was rewarded with a quiet little bank along the river complete with a chair to sit back and watch the creek go by.

There are several turns on the way to Centralia so keep an eye on your map. I had to chuckle as I rode through Chehalis and came across a sign that said “Seasonal firewood for sale”. I was left wondering whether the firewood was seasoned or seasonal.

The streets of Centralia are lined with older buildings giving it a western feel. It is a big antique shopping destination, but my recommendation is to hit up the McMenamins Olympic club for some food and eats. The train station is just across the street so it makes for an easy stumble back to the train for your return to Portland.